RaceFace Turbine Cinch – Stuck Hard

Forums Mountain Bike Forum RaceFace Turbine Cinch – Stuck Hard

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    • #592579

      Hi all,

      Looking for tips and tricks to get a extremely stubborn Turbine Cinch drive side crank off to swap chainrings (recently moved to a new area with a LOT more climbing). Problem is, the bolt won’t move. I’ve tried tying the crankset down, laid the bike on the floor, hammering, even a torque wrench to try to get this 8mm keyed-bolt off, but the bolt hasn’t moved.

      My concern is the last shop I took it to slightly stripped the bolt and I’m really afraid I won’t be able to get the crank off at all if this bolt gets completely stripped (plus, parts/replacement cranks are hard to come by for a decent price)

    • #592671

      Try a little persuasion with a long arm hex wrench.

      Here’s the changeup… Insert the wrench completely. Tap it in with a kitchen hammer gently. Now, while keeping tension on the wrench, the kitchen hammer. Tap on the wrench while applying force to the wrench. Next would be heat…


    • #592750

      Stupid question, have you already loosened the lock ring (I think it’s 12 or 14mm)? Just asking because the 8mm bolt should not be that tight…

      • #592766

        EDIT to previous post: the lock ring is 16mm. There are adapters available, or you can use a 16mm bolt head with two nuts backed against each other as a tool for it.

    • #593035

      Crank arm is removed with the ring in place as it acts as a puller when the fixing bolt is loosened.

      Non drive side requires a 16mm hex, drive side requires 8mm hex.

      Successfully removing the drive side arm is done by fully inserting the hex wrench into the center fixing bolt hole. Less than full insertion all but guarantees damaging the bolt to the point that removal will be an invasive surgery.

      Replacement fixing bolts are available  though loco bike shops and also reputable online shops.

    • #593433

      Have you found a solution yet?  I’m facing the same issue.

    • #593444

      OK – this worked (paracord):

      by the way, mine is not a self-extracting set up, so I haven’t yet figured out how to get the DS crank off yet.

    • #593580

      M@frit, in your case, you need to purchase the proper puller that will come into play after the fixing bolt has been removed.

      Very, very important that the puller is threaded into the crank arm completely before attempting to remove it! Not doing so will pull the threads out of the arm and you’ll be in biiig trouble.

      You should be able to purchase the self pulling hardware at any quality bike shop.

      • #593818

        Thanks for the advice.  I bought the Park CCP-44 crank puller which worked really well, although I think my LBS over torqued everything, I had to just about stand on it to get it to budge.  It’s possible that they didn’t put any grease on the splines prior to assembly.  I then had to get the BBT-22 (bottom bracket tool) to remove the chainring from the crank arm.

        After all that – SUCCESS!!  I now have a new, smaller chainring.  Now I just need to remove a couple chain links.  I’m sure there’s a tool for that (I already have master link pliers and a chain breaker).

        (Apologies if this came across like a Park Tool commercial.)

    • #594133

      m@frit, the plier type chain tool is a no go with today’s chain pins. The pins are mushroomed to prevent Collidus, the condition of jewels impacting the back of the stem when a chain lets go!

      With that said, the screw type chain tool is a requirement these days!

      Never press a pin back into place, always replace it with a master link.

      I own many Park tools and highly respect the brand. Glad to help where I can…


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